LEARNING JOURNEY WITH READING VILLAGE

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1 LEARNING JOURNEY WITH READING VILLAGE

2 BREAKING THE CYCLE OF GENERATIONAL POVERTY P.O. BOX 917, LAFAYETTE, CO 80026

3 BREAKING THE CYCLE OF POVERTY IN GUATEMALA Leveraging reading and education as mechanisms to end poverty, Reading Village creates the conditions for youth to discover their true potential and become agents of change in the world. Through collaboration and innovation, whole communities find and unleash their power to flourish under their own resources and creativity. Working collaboratively in indigenous communities, the Reading Village model combines innovation and cultivation to co-create human capacity. In this way, we aim to develop not only the next generation of leaders, but also generations of readers thereafter. By providing scholarships, securing educations, and facilitating opportunities for leadership development, we position communities to empower themselves to chase their own dreams. Sustainable change and local initiative are the measurements of our success. Our LEARNING JOURNEYS provide an intimate way to explore Guatemala and bear witness to the incredible potential of reading and education to break the cycle of poverty in the communities where we work. Travel with us to visit our program sites, meet our youth leaders and the children they read to, and celebrate these communities as they create their own culture of literacy. LEARNING JOURNEY 3

4 I have traveled to many places in the world. This was by far the most meaningful and intimate experience I have ever had. We were welcomed with such open arms. LEARNING JOURNEY ALUMNI TABLE OF CONTENTS 5 INTRODUCTION The Learning Journey Your Role on the Learning Journey Your Mindset The Work of Reading Village Costs Cancellations 7 PREPARING FOR YOUR TRIP Weather Health and Immunization Passport Money What to Pack Suggested Reading Donations You Can Bring 11 ABOUT GUATEMALA Arriving at the Guatemala Airport Emergency Contact Information Staying Healthy Staying in Touch Staying Safe Hotels Food Transportation 16 ABOUT THE VILLAGES 17 PRELIMINARY ITINERARY 18 FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS LEARNING JOURNEY 4

5 JOINING A LEARNING JOURNEY WITH READING VILLAGE Reading Village is breaking the cycle of poverty in Guatemala. It s not just about transforming the lives of Guatemalan youth. We positively impact the lives of our volunteers, donors, staff, and everyone who comes into contact with our work. On this trip you will encounter the rich culture and breathtaking natural landscape of Guatemala, the social innovation of Reading Village and other non-governmental organizations, and the dynamic people who are building a better Guatemala. You will also witness some of the difficult realities - the poverty, desperation, and brokenness that are also part of Guatemala. This is a Learning Journey. Our purpose transcends tourism. We aim to have authentic cultural experiences, intimate conversations, and intentional time and space for reflection on what we are experiencing along the way. It is our hope that the people, sights, and adventures will enrich your life and touch your heart for years to come. YOUR ROLE IN THE LEARNING JOURNEY Your most important role is as a goodwill ambassador. Your ability to be present with kindness, curiosity, appreciation, and respect is essential to the success of the Learning Journey. As a goodwill ambassador, you represent yourself, your country, and Reading Village in the eyes of others. This requires a momentto-moment awareness and sensitivity to local laws and cultural norms. Each morning we ll brief you on any special cultural or social norms you may encounter that day. YOUR MINDSET It is important to recognize that Reading Village is a small nonprofit organization working in a developing country. If you have never travelled in the developing world, there is one important mantra be flexible! People run late, things break down, roads close without notice, and weather often dictates what happens or doesn t happen from moment to moment. Things will work differently than what you are used to and there will almost certainly be times of frustration. This is part of the experience of being on a Learning Journey. At times it will demand patience on your part as you grow to understand the unique local factors that shape Reading Village s landscape. We have learned that when something doesn t happen the way we thought, it s best to look for the gift in whatever is occurring in that moment. We ve had some of our best adventures, insights, and successes born out of inconvenient moments. LEARNING JOURNEY 5

6 COSTS Your trip fees cover all hotel accommodations (price assumes 2 guests per room), private ground transportation, lake transportation, breakfasts and lunches (except on travel days), and guides during the scheduled dates of the Learning Journey. Costs that you are responsible for include: Round trip flights from the US to Guatemala. Travelers insurance is recommended for cancelled flights, lost luggage, and emergency healthcare. It is nominally priced and available through a variety of online providers. All dinners, except on the final night. Dinners range between $5 and $15 per person, depending on the town and restaurant chosen. Hotel for any extensions beyond the dates of the trip (e.g., early arrival or late return) and/ or if you want a private room. PAYMENT FULL PRICE DISCOUNT RATE $2,000 per person (assumes two people per room) $1,800 per person if you pay in full by April 19, bring a friend, or fundraise $1,000 for Reading Village A 50% deposit is due at the time of registration and the balance is due 60 days before the trip departure date. An additional fee of $250 applies for a private bedroom. CANCELLATIONS 100% of payment will be refunded if cancellation takes place 45 days prior to departure. FORMS TO COMPLETE Please download the Learning Journey Registration Packet off of our website. Fill out the three forms and them to marcella@readingvillage.org or mail them to us along with your deposit at P.O. Box 917 Lafayette, CO Flight information can be sent later once we have confirmed the trip and you have purchased your ticket. TRAVEL INSURANCE We strongly recommend that you purchase trip insurance that enables some level of reimbursement in the event of trip cancellation, delay, and/or interruption. The cost of such insurance tends to be nominal relative to the cost of your trip. One of the largest providers of such insurance is LEARNING JOURNEY 6

7 PREPARING FOR YOUR LEARNING JOURNEY TO GUATEMALA WEATHER Many people think of Guatemala as hot, humid and tropical. Though there are some places in Guatemala that fit this description, it is not the case in the Department of Sololá, where we will spend our time together. The elevation is over 6,000 feet, so the weather tends to fluctuate between being warm in the daytime and cool in the evening. The temperature is pretty constant throughout the year, between 55 and 75 degrees F, with the season changing between wet and dry. The rainy season runs from May October when you can count on some rain (usually brief) nearly every day, and the dry season runs from November April. You can Google forecasts for Panajachel to get a better idea of what to expect. The elevation and the coolness make for a fairly mosquito-free environment. Between the fact that there is no air-conditioning or heat and buildings are often open to the air, you pretty much live in the ambient air temperature. HEALTH & IMMUNIZATIONS Please note that while there are no reported cases of Zika in the area, according to the CDC ( gov/zika) due to the elevation in Panajachel, it s possible that mosquitos carry the virus. Please check the website and speak to your doctor if you re considering adding to your family this year. No immunizations are required. Check with your doctor or travel clinic for recommendations for pretrip planning and to ensure basic immunizations (e.g., tetanus) are up do date. Some domestic medical insurance policies include coverage for international travel. If you need travel health insurance, various options can be found online. Be sure to read their policies carefully. Bring prescription medications with you in the containers they came in so that they are clearly identifiable. Common problems that travelers experience here are stomach problems/diarrhea and mild colds. Skin irritations from insect bites are also common. It might be helpful to bring Ibuprofen, Cortisone cream, Neosporin, Pepto Bismol, Immodium, and some cold medicine with you. Most of these items can also be purchased in Guatemala. LEARNING JOURNEY 7 JOURNEY 8

8 PASSPORT A valid passport is required for travel to Guatemala. Make sure that it will not expire within 90 days of the start of the trip (the time you will be allotted on your tourist visa). If so, renew now. If you need to renew your passport or get a new passport before arriving, please make sure that you send your application in plenty of time. Passport renewal information can be found at renew_833.html. A tourist card or visa is no longer required for US citizens who stay less than 90 days. Once you are settled in your hotel, only carry around photocopies of your passport instead of the originals. MONEY We recommend arriving with about $100 US in cash and a bank card to withdraw more funds (in local currency) from ATMs. Many businesses in Panajachel and Antigua accept credit cards (Visa is accepted at more locations than Master Card). There are ATMs where you can withdraw Guatemalan currency. Please check with your bank or credit card about international PIN requirements, fees and charges when withdrawing money abroad, and make sure that you call your bank before you leave for Guatemala letting them know that they can expect charges to your card coming from Guatemala. With a valid passport, you can change traveler s checks and US dollars to Quetzales at banks in Guatemala. If you would like to exchange your money at the airport in Guatemala City, you are free to do so but you will not get as good of an exchange rate. We recommend that you wait until you are settled in at the hotel to exchange money at the local bank. The rate is about Q8.0 per US dollar. LEARNING JOURNEY 8

9 WHAT TO PACK FOR YOUR LEARNING JOURNEY We suggest you dress casually but conservatively for warm weather with possible showers. Bring layers as it can be quite chilly in the mornings but the sun warms things up during the day. As a general rule, Guatemalans don t wear shorts (unless during athletic activity), tank tops, revealing shirts, short dresses or short skirts. Wearing these clothes will draw a lot of unwanted attention to you. No flashy jewelry, watches or clothing. There are many laundry services that will wash/dry/fold your clothes, same day, for a few dollars for several pounds of clothing, if needed. Also, please note that hair dryers are available at both hotels. Passport and photocopy Cash (small bills 1 s, 5 s and 10 s no more than $100) ATM card (notify bank prior to departure) Credit card (Note your card number and customer service number in case it is stolen.) Separate coin purse for Quetzales (you end up with lots of coins) Money belt or around-your-neck pouch to carry cash and ID Sleepwear Shirts, both short and long-sleeve Sweatshirt/cardigan sweater Light weight rain jacket or windbreaker Portable umbrella Long pants (and skirts and capris for women) Comfortable walking or hiking shoes Tevas (sturdy but cooler on the feet) Bathing suit (hot pools in Panajachel!) Hat to protect your head from the sun Small daypack Sun block, especially for face Camera and charger Toiletries (travel size shampoo, toothpaste, etc. should last you the entire week) Powerbars or other easily packable energy snacks for in between meals Book for leisure time Prescriptions and necessary medicines Hand sanitizer First aid kit-include bug bite anti-itch lotion/ cortisone cream, ibuprofen, and anti-diarrhea medicine (like Pepto Bismol, Imodium, and/or Cipro) and rehydration salts Vaccination record (in case you need to remember what you ve been stuck with) Electricity runs on the same voltage as the USA, so no electrical adapters are needed. Spanish phrase book or dictionary if you do not speak the language A guidebook for further background information, especially if you are planning on traveling after our trip. The Rough Guides and the Lonely Planet are two popular options Ear plugs and/or eye shades for light sleepers Chargers for your electronics * Our vans have limited space. If you are planning to take more than one medium checked bag and one carry-on bag, you are over packing. Keep in mind that you can get by on one outfit per day, you won t need any formal clothing, and 24-hour fluff and fold laundry service is available. LEARNING JOURNEY 9

10 SUGGESTED READING For those interested in some background reading here are a few book suggestions: I, Rigoberta Menchú by Rigoberta Menchú: an easy-to-read first-person account of local Maya customs and daily life and the impact of the war. Menchú went on to win a Nobel Peace prize. In Focus: Guatemala A Guide to the People, Politics, and Culture by Trish O Kane: an easy read and a great overview of the country. Doing Good, Says Who? by Connie Newton and Fran Early: We may meet with Connie on this trip. Her book shares the good, the bad and the ugly results of attempting to help. For more in-depth reading: Bitter Fruit, by Stephen Schlesinger: a rather fact-heavy account of how the CIA conspired with the United Fruit Company to overthrow the democratically elected Guatemalan president in Unfinished Conquest by Victor Perera: Victor Perera was a native Guatemalan who took the better part of 6 years to write this book. He interviewed wealthy landowners, government officials, military personnel, Catholic and evangelical clergy and mostly the Maya people who suffered from 30 years of civil war. Silence on the Mountain, by Daniel Wilkinson: a young US scholar s attempt to understand what really happened during the war, written somewhat like a travelogue. Guatemala: Never Again, REMHI: The Catholic Archdiocese published this abridged account of eyewitness accounts of the atrocities committed during the war. Eternal Spring Eternal Tyranny by Jean-Marie Simon: a grim recounting of the brutal treatment of the Maya during the 80 s. Some of the best photos of Guatemala around. Not for the squeamish. Popul Vuh, by Dennis Tedlock The Long Night of White Chickens, by Francisco Goldman Harvest of Violence: The Maya Indians and the Guatemalan Crisis. Edited by Robert M. Carmack SUGGESTED VIEWING Living on One Dollar - Available for download at or Men with Guns - Film by John Sayles DONATIONS YOU CAN BRING We do not encourage bringing candy, trinkets, and toys to give to kids. It results in unequal treatment of children in the community and associates Reading Village as a bearer of gifts, reinforcing a dependence relationship rather than one of partnership with community members. However, there are things you can bring that would be useful in the context of Reading Village s work. Useful items include school and art supplies, storybooks in Spanish, educational games and puzzles in Spanish, etc. Some of these items can be obtained second-hand through your local libraries and schools. If you are interested, we will provide you with a list from Guatemalan staff with specific items that would be useful. LEARNING JOURNEY 10

11 ABOUT GUATEMALA, ALL OF ITS BEAUTY & BROKENNESS With a population of nearly 15 million, Guatemala is the most populated country in Central America. It is also one of the poorest. Seventy five percent of the population lives below the poverty line and 58% live in extreme poverty (World Bank). Over half the population is indigenous Maya, and the remainder is primarily of mixed European and indigenous heritage referred to in Guatemala as Ladino. Indigenous women are the most marginalized in the country, facing a triple discrimination - they are women, they are poor and they are Indigenous. Raw with the wounds of nearly four decades of civil war, the country is full to the brim with survivors struggling to break free from seemingly perpetual poverty. The literacy rate of Guatemalans over the age of 15 is just 74% apart from Haiti, this is the lowest literacy rate in the Western Hemisphere. What s more, social and cultural prejudices and barriers such as racism, gender discrimination and poverty, show up plainly in these literacy statistics: males (80%) are more likely to be able to read than females (69%), and Ladinos (82%) are better off than their indigenous peers (58%). When it comes down to it, indigenous women are the most marginalized in the country with literacy rates of just 30% alongside high rates of poverty and poor health. Guatemala s low levels of literacy are the product of failing education systems and limited resources for learning. Because public education is not free in Guatemala, attendance figures are dismal with decreasing attendance as children grow up: 80% enrollment of primary-aged children, 30% of middle school-aged children, and 10% of high school students. With one of the worst school systems in the Americas, outlays for enrollment fees, uniforms, and school supplies can exceed a month s salary per child per year for the average manual laborer. It s no wonder, then, that most Guatemalans grow up either having no relationship at all with books or associating books with drudgery and distaste. While quality of life may be low, Guatemalan culture is alive and well. An intoxicating richness of color, landscape, and architecture combine to inspire this nation. With volcanoes, lakes, and coastal land, the country is rich with natural resources. Its colonial history and cobblestone streets give way to vibrant rainforests and winding mountain roads. Mayan temples, stunning tapestries, and delicious coffee may represent this Latin American nation, but dig a little deeper and we ve found a population of impassioned, resourceful, and generous people making great sacrifices to create a better life for the next generation. In this way, Guatemala exists at the intersection of need and capacity, proximity and distance. Scarred by a traumatic past, the country is looking for a better way forward. Its youth are ready to change things and its people are willing to work for it. What s more, Guatemala is our neighbor. It s just far enough to feel a world away, but too close to overlook any longer. Come visit it with us. WE SWEAR YOU LL NEVER BE THE SAME. LEARNING JOURNEY 11

12 There are places in the world that break our hearts open to the beauty and possibility of life. Guatemala is one of those places. LEARNING JOURNEY 12 - READING VILLAGE STAFF

13 ARRIVING IN GUATEMALA When your flight comes in, your passport will be stamped by immigration and given a 90 day visa. After passing through customs, follow the crowd of people to baggage claim to wait for your luggage. It may take anywhere from 10 minutes to one hour for your luggage to arrive. As with any flight, try to carry on important items and a change of clothes in case your checked luggage gets lost. Have your baggage claim ticket ready, they sometimes check for it. They are now checking random bags before exiting. They are looking for items they can tax. You ll then exit to the outside greeting area. Someone from Reading Village will be there to meet you with a sign that says Reading Village. They will make sure you are put in reliable transportation to our hotel in Antigua about 45 minutes from the airport. EMERGENCY CONTACT INFORMATION We will be on the ground in Guatemala before you arrive, so if you need to reach us while en route or if you d like for family to have a means of contacting you during the trip, here are the Guatemalan cell phone numbers of staff on the trip. Juan Skinner, National Director Guatemalan cell: (only last 8 digits when dialing within country) STAYING IN TOUCH Most of the hotels we stay in will have wireless internet available to you. Your trip leaders will have Guatemalan cell phones that you can use if you purchase a phone card with minutes. Alternatively, you can easily purchase a basic cell phone for about $40 and recharge your cell phone minutes with phone cards sold everywhere. Calls within Guatemala and to the US cost the same, around 10 cents per minute. There are post offices both in Antigua and Panajachel. Consider checking with your local cell phone carrier for an international plan. Many carriers offer a reasonable unlimited texting, wifi calling and discounted phone plans. STAYING HEALTHY Here are some general health tips: Get recommended immunizations (consult with your physician). Bring all necessary personal medications (allergies, prescriptions, etc.). Some doctors recommend taking Pepto Bismol prophylactically, others suggest bringing Cipro for stomach illness. Consult your doctor with questions. Make sure that you have either travel insurance or that your medical provider insures emergency and hospitalization coverage overseas. Drink only bottled water. It is easy to get dehydrated at these altitudes. Try to eat fruits and vegetables that you know were cooked. Any raw fruits or vegetables should be disinfected or peeled before eating. Brush your teeth with bottled water. Do not eat street food, especially cut fruit. Wash hands frequently. Bring hand sanitizer (as sometimes there is no water or soap available to wash your hands). Bring sunscreen and a hat. The sun is strong at this altitude. LEARNING JOURNEY 13

14 STAYING SAFE Before coming to Guatemala, one should be aware of the risks of traveling here. Violence in Guatemala is a serious issue. While we do not want to scare you away from this beautiful country, we do want you to be well-informed. Be mindful of your surroundings as you would on any travel to any location. From the US Department of State: Guatemala has a developing economy, characterized by wide income disparities. Hotels and other tourist facilities in the principal tourist sites most frequented by visitors from the United States are generally good to excellent. A peace accord, signed in 1996, ended a 36-year armed conflict. Violent crime, however, is a serious concern due to endemic poverty, an abundance of weapons, a legacy of societal violence, and dysfunctional law enforcement and judicial systems. * (for up-to-date travel safety information) In most of the places we will be staying foreigners are common. This means law enforcement is generally more visible but petty crime is more prevalent. Here is a list of common sense and street smart suggestions for staying safe: Do not walk alone after dark. If you must be out past dark, make sure you are with others and take a taxi or tuc tuc. Do not wear elaborate jewelry or expensive/inappropriate clothing. People in Guatemala do not wear shorts, so avoid wearing shorts, short dresses, or short skirts. Do not show that you have expensive electronic equipment; (i.e., don t dangle a big camera around neck or have a fancy camera or computer case). Do not carry your passport on you. Make a copy and keep that with you at all times. Don t carry more money than you will need that day, but always have a minimum of Q50 on your person. Don t carry credit cards unless you are planning on using them that day. Use the ATM by day and with a friend. Disperse the cash among several pockets, wallet, etc. before leaving the booth. LEARNING JOURNEY 14 JOURNEY 15

15 HOTELS We will be staying at some really lovely hotels. Unless you have made other arrangements, there will be two people per room. We select hotels and B&Bs based on their reputations for gracious staff, safety, comfort, and cleanliness. Our philosophy is to choose places we would feel comfortable having our mothers stay! (Note that throughout Guatemala, regardless of the quality of the hotel, it is customary to place used toilet paper in a covered trash container next to the toilet. This is because most plumbing infrastructure throughout the country is not designed to handle paper.) FOOD Food is inexpensive and yummy in Guatemala. When we are in Antigua and Panajachel just about any kind of food is available (e.g., pizza, vegetarian, Chinese, etc.). In the rural areas it gets very basic freshly made tortillas, beans, and rice. If you ask, we will gladly point you in the direction of our favorite neighborhood bakeries and chocolate shops. TRANSPORTATION For any long or medium distance trips we will use a private van driven by a professional driver with whom we have worked before. They show up on time, drive cautiously, and take good care of their vehicles. LEARNING JOURNEY 15 LEARNING JOURNEY 16

16 THE VILLAGES THAT YOU LL VISIT ON YOUR LEARNING JOURNEY The communities in which Reading Village works are beautiful farming villages nestled in the Western Highlands. Many families grow corn and beans for the home as well as cash crops including onions, carrots, and cabbage for the larger city markets. In these communities foreign tourists (particularly groups) are rare and will attract the attention of locals. Women and some men dress in their traditional hand-woven clothing, Spanish is a second language for most all these Kaqchikel-speaking Mayan people, and women in particular are less likely to speak Spanish. You ll have the opportunity to walk through the surrounding hills, participate with locals in daily activities such as tortilla making or crop harvesting, and get to know our youth leaders and assist them in a reading fiesta with primary school children. Reading Village has invested a great deal of time and effort in building relationships with community members but we are still and will always be outsiders guests in their community -- and take special care to act with respect and sensitivity. We ll be sure to let you know what that looks like every step of the way so that it is a rich experience for all. * IMPORTANT: When interacting with locals it is important to recognize that you have more access to power (in all its forms: wealth, travel visas, privilege, political clout, education) than the vast majority of Guatemalans with whom you will come into contact. The Guatemalans are aware of this imbalance even if you never think about it. This imbalance of power can impact relationships in different ways. In rare cases a family member might try to manipulate a handout from you, for example asking you for money or naming you as godmother of their new child. Refuse to be used it reinforces the hierarchical nature of the relationship and hurts future volunteers who will be more likely to be treated as a commodity. LEARNING JOURNEY 16 17

17 A SAMPLE ITINERARY FOR YOUR LEARNING JOURNEY Things in Guatemala change based on weather, road conditions, national current events, and local factors. This is our intended itinerary for the trip. And we ask for your flexibility as we adapt to whatever s happening on the ground each day. DAY 1 This is arrival day. You will be shuttled from the Guatemala Airport to our B&B in Antigua (about 45 minutes) where we will stay the night. DAY 2 Following an in-country briefing by a local expert, we ll embark by private van for the Lake Atitlán region. You will have time to explore the town of Panajachel, which will serve as our primary base. Enjoy some hand-crafted Mayan hot chocolate, followed by intimate conversation with Reading Village s staff. DAY 3 After breakfast and the morning briefing we will travel about 30 minutes to one of our partner communities where we will spend the day. You will visit the homes of some of our youth leaders, learning about their native Mayan language, cooking practices, agricultural activities, and their rich tradition of weaving. DAY 4 Travel 30 minutes to a partner community to work side-by-side with the youth leaders to plan a reading fiesta for the smaller children in the community. Our youth leaders will share their way of life, lead us on a walking tour of the village, and demonstrate their amazing work with younger children. DAY 5 Joined by several of the youth leaders, we will take a water taxi across Lake Atitlán to visit another town. DAY 6 On our final day in the communities we will return to throw a reading fiesta for 100 local children. This celebration of literacy will be the culminating experience in the communities, bringing together our youth leaders and the children they work with to enjoy a good story. The afternoon will be spent traveling back to Antigua. DAY 7 The last day in Guatemala we will enjoy the old colonial town of Antigua. Included in the trip fee is a choice of a chocolate making class or a walking architectural tour of the city. Or you can feel free to roam on your own. We will have a closing circle and farewell dinner together, and we ll sleep in Antigua. DAY 8 Shuttles will leave from Antigua for the airport in coordination with individual flight departures. LEARNING JOURNEY 17

18 FREQUENTY ASKED QUESTIONS THAT WE RE HAPPY TO ANSWER After looking over the sample itinerary, here are some of the questions people often ask. WHY DO WE CALL IT A LEARNING JOURNEY? The purpose of the trip is to offer a unique and profound learning experience through intercultural exchange, service, and responsible tourism. As co-travelers we will form our own learning community, sharing our insights and emerging questions with each other along the way. IS IT SAFE TO TRAVEL IN GUATEMALA? Guatemala has a high crime rate. That said, we don t consider ourselves to be risk takers. Over the years we have brought friends and loved ones with us to Guatemala and we will treat you with the same vigilance and care. People are most at risk when in Guatemala City and on the highways. We have designed the trip so that we will not be spending nights in the capital and minimize highway travel. Our hotels will be located in areas frequented by foreign travelers and in these places there is very little violent crime, though petty theft is more common. Each morning our group briefing will include cultural protocol and safety tips that are specific to the places we ll be visiting that particular day. SHOULD I BE WORRIED ABOUT MY HEALTH? There are currently no required vaccinations for travel to Guatemala and we will not be traveling in malarial areas. Basic precautions with regard to washing hands, drinking bottled water (readily available), and avoiding street vendor food increase the likelihood that you ll stay healthy. That said you will be traveling in a developing country in which things like stomach illness or a sprained ankle can occur. We will be staying in towns where there are pharmacies, doctors, and hospital facilities. WHAT IS INCLUDED IN THE TRIP FEE? The trip fee includes the following airport ground transportation on both ends of the trip (including driver tip), all hotel accommodations (minus incidentals and any tips you choose to leave for the housekeeping team), all breakfasts and lunches (except on air travel days), all ground transportation, scheduled excursions and guides (including tip for the guide), and pre-trip briefing materials. The trip fee does NOT include the following air transportation to and from Guatemala City, trip insurance (inexpensive and strongly recommended), or dinners. HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE GOING TO BE ON THE TRIP? We purposely keep it small and intimate no more than 14 people will be on this Learning Journey. WHAT WILL THE ACCOMMODATIONS BE LIKE? Our hotels in Antigua and Panajachel have great reputations for their beauty, gracious staff, comfort, and cleanliness. The staff know us by first name and love the Reading Village volunteer groups! These are places in which we feel comfortable having our mothers stay! LEARNING JOURNEY 18

19 WHAT KIND OF FOOD WILL WE BE EATING? Food is inexpensive in Guatemala. When we are in Antigua and Panajachel just about any kind of food is available (e.g., pizza, vegetarian, Chinese, etc.). In the rural areas it gets very basic freshly made tortillas, tamales, beans, and rice. If you ask, we will gladly point you in the direction of our favorite neighborhood bakeries, artisan ice cream and chocolate shops. HOW WILL WE GET AROUND? We use private van drivers who we know personally and who have worked with Reading Village for many years. They show up on time, drive cautiously and take good care of their vehicles. CAN I COMMUNICATE WITH THE FOLKS AT HOME WHEN I AM THERE? Our hotels have free wifi in the common areas. In both Antigua and Panajachel there are many internet cafés, some with wireless service. If your cell phone service does not extend to Guatemala, you can purchase an inexpensive phone and debit card plan for under $50. Your trip leaders have Guatemalan cell phones and these numbers can be made available to your family members in case of emergency while you are on the trip. Furthermore, if you download them ahead of time apps such as Skype and Whatsapp are easy and free to use wherever you have internet connectivity. DO I NEED TO BE ABLE TO SPEAK SPANISH TO PARTICIPATE IN A LEARNING JOURNEY? Speaking Spanish is not required to go on the trip; we translate everything to facilitate communication. But it s always a much richer experience if you know a little of the local language. If you live in the Boulder/ Denver area we recommend both the Spanish Institute ( and Bolder Languages ( as good places to learn a little Spanish! WHO IS LEADING THE TRIP? You will have a minimum of two trip leaders from among our very experienced team. They are likely to include a board member and staff member of Reading Village. WHAT ARE THE PAYMENT AND CANCELLATION POLICIES? Payment: The fee for the trip (excluding airfare) is $2,000 per person. This fee assumes a shared room. A private room may be available for an additional fee of $250. Space is available on a first-come-first-serve basis. In order to secure your place on the trip, a 50% deposit is required along with a registration form that can be downloaded from the Learning Journey web page. Checks should be made to Reading Village, P.O. Box 917, Lafayette CO Cancellation: 100% refund if cancellation occurs 45 days or more prior to scheduled departure. IS ANY PORTION OF THE TRIP FEE TAX DEDUCTIBLE? Approximately half of the trip fee is tax deductible as a donation to Reading Village. FURTHER QUESTIONS? Contact us at or marcella@readingvillage.org LEARNING JOURNEY 19

20 We cannot eliminate hunger, but we can feed each other. We cannot eliminate loneliness, but we can hold each other. We cannot eliminate pain, but we can live a life of compassion. - Mark Nepo LEARNING JOURNEY 20

21 HUNGRY IN GUATEMALA BY SAMUEL LOEWENBERG, FROM THE ATLANTIC DISPATCH, AUGUST 26, 2009 In a country plagued by chronic malnutrition, government solutions keep coming up short. The real problem: poverty and income inequality. At the G8 meeting in Italy last month, the world s richest countries agreed to devote $20 billion to food security and agricultural development. President Barack Obama declared that the purpose of aid must be to create the conditions where it s no longer needed, to help people become self-sufficient, provide for their families and lift their standards of living. The initiative was primarily spurred by concerns about the effects on struggling populations of global warming and the economic downturn. But it is also perhaps a reflection of Obama s stated intent to put a greater emphasis on what his administration calls smart power diplomacy and development, as opposed to primarily defense in his approach to foreign policy. Here s an unlikely candidate to be the poster child for the new program: Guatemala. The Central American nation has the sixthworst rate of chronic malnutrition in the world, despite being what might be described as a relatively well-off lower-middle class country. Indeed, the situation there bears little resemblance to the well-worn picture of skeletal children in African refugee camps. Measured by average GDP, Guatemala is doing fine economically. But that fact hides dramatic income inequality: while wealthy citizens live luxuriously in sequestered Guatemala City neighborhoods, the poor are barely noticed, living like feudal peasants in the countryside. Nearly half the children in this country of 13 million are chronically malnourished, according to the World Food Program. One reason the country s elite seem blind to the massive hunger problem is that those affected show few physical symptoms. Guatemala s chronically malnourished infants do eat, but their diet is low quality and carb-heavy, mostly tortillas and pasta. So the children look short rather than wasted. Beans have become too expensive for daily consumption, and farmers have to sell off their vegetables and eggs rather than serving them to their kids. While children don t go hungry, their nutritional deficits take a devastating toll hindering brain development, among other disabling effects. The country s stark income inequality means that rural areas suffer from a lack of basic infrastructure. Clean water and electricity are almost nonexistent in many villages. Education, too, is scarce. Less than 40 percent of indigenous women in Guatemala are literate, compared with an overall rate of 85 percent for Latin America. Worst hit by the chronic hunger are the country s Mayans and other indigenous peoples most of them rural farmers who make up about half of the population. In some regions of the country, malnutrition levels top 90 percent, among the very highest rates in the world. The government s anti-hunger efforts so far have primarily focused on providing food supplements to stunted infants. But while this treats the symptoms, it doesn t address the underlying problems of poverty and income inequality. Juan Aguilar, director of the government s food security and nutrition agency, says that in order to really make a difference, the country needs to invest in improving basic village conditions. Recognizing this, the government recently began a pilot infrastructure program in one of the country s most-afflicted Eastern provinces. It s a good start. But the program s effectiveness and ability to expand are hampered by a paltry budget. Despite a fairly robust economy, the state collects little revenue, because it has one of the lowest tax rates in Latin America. That s great for the top 10 percent of the population, who control 50 percent of the country s wealth. But for everybody else, it s a disaster. Governments elsewhere in Latin America have been able to do much more for their poor. Brazil, for example, has even worse income inequality, but it has had tremendous success with a program giving money directly to the needy via ATM machines. Guatemala s neighbors, Honduras and El Salvador, have also engaged in sustained and so far successful government efforts to reduce hunger. By contrast, according to a 2007 report by the U.S. Agency for International Development, at Guatemala s current slow rate of progress, it would take 83 years to put an end to stunting among the country s indigenous populations. Some argue that because of the role it played in creating Guatemala s current neo-colonial system, the U.S. should do more to help. In 1954, the U.S. supported the overthrow of Guatemala s democratically elected government on behalf of the United Fruit Company, and then, during the ensuing 30-year civil war, backed the right-wing military. By the time the war ended in 1996, 200,000 people had been killed or disappeared. But America s foreign aid establishment is stretched thin: the U.S. Agency for International Development has only 2,300 employees fewer than a third of what it had in And for the 84 countries in which it works, the agency has only five engineers and twentythree education officers. The U.S. does give Guatemala some assistance, but unlike most its neighbors, the country failed to qualify for a Millennium Challenge grant, which is the biggest current U.S. development program. It was rejected because of its high level of corruption, poor law enforcement, and low degree of government effort in supporting the poor. Guatemala will need to get its own house in order if it wants to save its children. As seems clear, however, that s not likely to happen any time soon. Wayne Nilsestuen, the head of USAID s Guatemala office, put it perhaps the most starkly: in the end it comes down to this, There s not enough money for the state to perform its functions. Samuel Loewenberg reported from Guatemala on a grant from the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting. [ LEARNING JOURNEY 21

22 BREAKING THE CYCLE OF GENERATIONAL POVERTY P.O. BOX 917, LAFAYETTE, CO 80026

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