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Copyright is owned by the Author of the thesis. Permission is given for a copy to be downloaded by an individual for the purpose of research and private study only. The thesis may not be reproduced elsewhere without the permission of the Author.

Divergent Expectations: Case Studies of Community-Based Tourism on the Island of the Gods, Bali A thesis presented in partial fulfilment of the requirements for the Degree of Master of International Development at Massey University, Palmerston North, New Zealand Kathlia Sari Martokusumo 2015

Abstract This thesis examines the success of community-based tourism in Bali, a popular mass tourism destination in Indonesia. Presented as an unalloyed good and the antithesis of bad mass tourism, community-based tourism is expected to create broad equitable distribution of benefits, expand livelihood options, empower local communities, and conserve both culture and the environment. In practice, however, it is difficult to find successful examples of community-based tourism. Most projects have failed to produce significant benefits and are too dependent on external assistance. Using four Balinese villages as case study sites, the views of the local community and support organisations were explored to find out what they perceive as successful community-based tourism. The results indicate that while there are many benefits enjoyed by the communities, most residents see that the community-based tourism initiative in their village is not yet successful. A key finding of the research is that while the communities recognise the socio-political, environmental and cultural benefits of the initiative in their village, they would like to enjoy more significant economic benefits, both at the community and individual household level. The thesis concludes that there are divergent expectations at play among the communities and the organisations supporting them as there is a difference in the emphasis of what success means between the community and the support organisations. i

Acknowledgments I would like to begin by thanking Allah the Almighty for all the blessings in my life. I would also like to thank both my supervisors Professor Regina Scheyvens and Associate Professor Glenn Banks for the immense support, guidance, patience and with throughout the process. Your expertise and encouragement have always been inspiring me professionally and personally. My special thanks go to all the staff of Development Studies for their tremendous support. I am also thankful to the International Student Support Office for all the assistance extended to me. I would also like to thank my respondents whose inputs have been very beneficial for this research. I thank all the support of my colleagues in the Development Studies Programme at School of People, Environment, and Planning and all my beloved friends near and far. Finally, I am eternally grateful to my family, my mother Julia Susanto, my sisters Kusumorini Susanto and Ratih Kus Handayani, my auntie Siti Komariah and all our family members who have been my shining light. I am also indebted to Fransiska Wiriadinata and Suryani Eka Wijaya for their relentless support. To the loving memory of my father Susanto Martokusumo, may Allah shower countless blessings on his soul Amin ii

Table of Contents Abstract i Acknowledgments ii List of Figures viii List of Tables ix 1 CHAPTER ONE Introduction... 1 1.1 Introduction... 1 1.2 The objectives and research questions... 4 2 CHAPTER TWO Literature Review... 5 2.1 Introduction... 5 2.2 Disillusionment with mass tourism... 5 2.3 Alternative tourism... 8 2.4 Community-based tourism as a concept... 12 2.5 Constraints to running a successful community-based tourism initiative... 22 2.6 Benefits of community-based tourism... 26 2.7 Success in community-based tourism... 30 2.7.1 What is success in community-based tourism?... 30 2.7.2 Factors contributing to success in community-based tourism... 34 2.7.3 External assistance... 36 2.8 Summary... 37 3 CHAPTER THREE Research Methodology and Methods... 39 3.1 Introduction... 39 3.2 Qualitative Methodology... 39 3.3 A Case Study Approach... 41 iii

3.3.1 Strengths and Weaknesses of a Case Study... 42 3.3.2 Selection of the Village Case Studies... 44 3.4 Data Collection Methods... 46 3.4.1 Interviews... 47 3.4.2 Questionnaires... 49 3.4.3 Observation... 49 3.5 Ethics... 50 3.6 Data Analysis... 52 3.7 Some Reflections on How the Research Went in Practice... 52 3.8 Limitations... 55 3.9 Summary... 56 4 CHAPTER FOUR Tourism in Bali and the Case Studies of Four Balinese Villages58 4.1 Introduction... 58 4.2 Tourism in Indonesia... 58 4.3 Tourism Development in Bali... 59 4.4 The Case Studies... 61 4.4.1 The Support Organisations... 61 4.4.1.1 Wisnu Foundation: The Village Ecotourism Network ( Jaringan Ekowisata Desa or JED)... 62 4.4.1.2 Bali Community-Based Tourism Association (Bali CoBTA)... 62 4.4.2 The Four Village Case Studies... 63 4.4.2.1 Nusa Ceningan... 63 You have nothing... 63 iv

Eyes Wide Open... 64 Development for whom?... 65 New Beginnings... 67 JED Ceningan in 2014... 69 4.4.2.2 Dukuh Sibetan... 73 4.4.2.3 Blimbingsari Village... 75 4.4.2.4 Pancasari Village... 76 4.4.2.5 Summary... 78 5 CHAPTER FIVE Findings... 79 5.1 Introduction... 79 5.2 Perspectives of Local Villagers in each Village Case Study Regarding Success 79 5.2.1 Nusa Ceningan... 79 5.2.1.1 How do they define success in community-based tourism?... 80 5.2.1.2 What do they think would help them to achieve success in communitybased tourism?... 85 5.2.2 Dukuh Sibetan... 87 5.2.2.1 How do they define success in community-based tourism?... 87 5.2.2.2 What do they think would help them to achieve success in communitybased tourism?... 92 5.2.3 Blimbingsari Village... 93 5.2.3.1 How do they define success in community-based tourism?... 93 v

5.2.3.2 What do they think would help them to achieve success in communitybased tourism?... 97 5.2.4 Pancasari Village... 100 5.2.4.1 How do they define success in community-based tourism?... 100 5.2.4.2 What do they think would help them to achieve success in communitybased tourism?... 103 5.3 Perspectives of Jaringan Ekowisata Desa (JED) as the Coordinating Body of JED Villages Regarding Success... 106 5.3.1 How do they define success in community-based tourism?... 106 5.3.2 What do they think would help them to achieve success in community-based tourism?107 5.4 Perspectives of Wisnu Foundation and Bali CoBTA as the Support Organisations Regarding Success... 109 5.4.1 Wisnu Foundation... 109 5.4.1.1 How do they define success in community-based tourism?... 109 5.4.1.2 What do they think would help them to achieve success in communitybased tourism?... 112 5.4.2 Bali Community-Based Tourism Association (Bali CoBTA)... 114 5.4.2.1 How do they define success in community-based tourism?... 114 5.4.2.2 What do they think would help them achieve success in community-based tourism? 116 5.4.3 Summary... 116 6 CHAPTER SIX Discussion and Conclusion: Divergent Expectations: Case Studies of Community-Based Tourism on the Island of the Gods, Bali... 118 6.1 Introduction...118 6.2 Community-Based Tourism in Theory and in Practice...118 vi

6.2.1 Views of Local Villagers versus the Views of the Support Organisations and JED Coordinating Body Regarding Success... 121 6.2.2 Views of Local Villagers versus the Views of the Support Organisations and JED Coordinating Body Regarding Factors Contributing to Success... 122 6.3 Lessons from Bali: Aligning Expectations for the Success of Community-Based Tourism 122 6.3.1 Effective external assistance... 124 6.4 Conclusion...125 References 127 Appendices 138 Appendix A...138 Appendix B...139 Appendix C...140 Appendix D...141 Appendix E...142 vii

List of Figures Figure 2-1 International Tourist Arrivals by region. (Source: UNWTO, 2013, p. 14) 7 Figure 2-2 Essential and optional components of community-based tourism (CBT) (Source: Author, based on literature) 16 viii

List of Tables Table 2-1 Different definitions of community-based tourism (CBT)... 14 Table 2-2 Framework for determining the impacts of community-based tourism (CBT) initiatives on local communities... 20 Table 2-3 Constraints to community-based tourism (CBT) initiatives... 23 Table 2-4 Benefits of community-based tourism (CBT) initiatives... 28 Table 2-5 Reasons for a CBT being regarded a success... 30 Table 2-6 What is success in community-based tourism (according to the literature)? (Source: Author, based on literature)... 32 Table 2-7 What is success in CBT (according to the literature)?... 33 Table 2-8 Factors contributing to success in community-based tourism (according to the literature)... 35 Table 2-9 What are the factors contributing to the success of CBT?... 36 Table 2-10 Engagement with external actors... 37 Table 5-1 Data of JED customers 2007 2014... 80 Table 5-2 How successful is CBT in Ceningan... 80 Table 5-3 Nusa Ceningan Visitors 2007 2014... 83 Table 5-4 How successful is CBT in Dukuh Sibetan... 87 Table 5-5 Dukuh Sibetan Visitors 2007 2014... 89 Table 5-6 How successful is CBT in Blimbingsari... 93 ix

Table 5-7 Blimbingsari Visitors 2010 2013... 95 Table 5-8 How successful is CBT in Pancasari... 100 Table 5-9 Pancasari Visitors 2011 2012... 101 Table 5-10 JED Visitors per Year 2007 2014... 107 x